Dynamic Oceanography - Waves

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Table of Contents Title Slide Overview Waves are the undulatory motion of a water surface. Ocean Waves The wave spectrum Classifying Waves Types of ocean Waves Progressive waves. Wave motion with depth Orbital motions within waves 1 Orbital motions within waves 2 Types of wave motion Deep water and shallow water waves Factors Affecting Wind Wave Development 1 Factors Affecting Wind Wave Development 2 Fetch Formation of wind waves Interference And Rogue Waves Constructive and destructive interference

Deep water transformations Swell Formation and Dispersion Interaction between the wave and seafloor Shallow water waves Wave steepness Wind Waves Approaching Shore Types of breaker Spilling breaker Plunging breaker Wave Refraction, Diffraction, and Reflection Wind Waves approaching shore may be refracted Storm surge Standing waves/seiches Standing waves in open and closed basins Internal waves 1 Internal waves 2 Internal waves 3 Tsunamis were previously called tidal waves, but are unrelated to tides. Generation of a tsunami