Dynamic Oceanography - Waves

The physics of waves; their classification, creation, propagation and destruction.


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Table of Contents

Title Slide


Waves are the undulatory motion of a water surface.

Ocean Waves

The wave spectrum

Classifying Waves

Types of ocean Waves

Progressive waves.

Wave motion with depth

Orbital motions within waves 1

Orbital motions within waves 2

Types of wave motion

Deep water and shallow water waves

Factors Affecting Wind Wave Development 1

Factors Affecting Wind Wave Development 2


Formation of wind waves

Interference And Rogue Waves

Constructive and destructive interference


Deep water transformations

Swell Formation and Dispersion

Interaction between the wave and seafloor

Shallow water waves

Wave steepness

Wind Waves Approaching Shore

Types of breaker

Spilling breaker

Plunging breaker

Wave Refraction, Diffraction, and Reflection

Wind Waves approaching shore may be refracted

Storm surge

Standing waves/seiches

Standing waves in open and closed basins

Internal waves 1

Internal waves 2

Internal waves 3

Tsunamis were previously called tidal waves, but are unrelated to tides.

Generation of a tsunami


Author: Sean Todd

Email: stodd@coa.edu

Home Page: http://www.coa.edu/faculty/webpages/stodd/index.

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