Coastal Oceanography A

Table of Contents Title slide Classifying Coasts Primary Coasts Secondary Coasts Large Scale Features of Secondary Coasts Beaches Breaking waves (photo) A typical beach Features of a beach Longshore currents Oblique waves and beaches Parallel waves and beaches Beach sediments are moved by currents and waves, especially breakers. Beach Profiles Sand budgets Coastal Cells Sand dunes are formed by winds blowing sand landward from the dry part of the beach. Cross-section of a beach including dunes

Barrier islands Morphology of a barrier island system Formation of barrier islands Sea cliffs Processes of cliff recession Deltas Morphology of a delta Other types of coast Estuaries Types of estuary The three types of estuary Estuary oceanographic characteristics Salt-wedge estuary Partially-mixed estuary Well-mixed estuary Biological stress in an estuary Biological halotolerance Chesapeake Bay